If there is one watch that can be called the blueprint for the modern wristwatch, it is, without question, the Rolex Datejust. Introduced in 1945, its combination of a waterproof Oyster case, a self-winding Perpetual movement, and an automatically changing date window was a true revolution. It is an undisputed icon, and within the vast universe of the Datejust, certain references and configurations stand out as particularly special to collectors. This Reference 1603 is one of them.
The 16xx series of the 1960s and 70s represents, in our opinion, the golden age of the classic Datejust. This generation perfected the model’s timeless proportions and housed the legendary Caliber 1570 family of movements—robust, reliable workhorses that are virtually indestructible. The Reference 1603 is distinguished by its all-stainless steel construction and its handsome “engine-turned” bezel. This intricate, finely grooved bezel offers a slightly more industrial and understated look than the flashy white gold fluted bezel of its sibling, the Reference 1601, giving the 1603 a unique, go-anywhere charm that we absolutely love.
This particular example, dating to the early 1960s, is a truly exceptional find, and the magic is all in the details. What immediately sets this piece apart is its stunning and rare “Alpha” handset. Seen only on earlier models, these elegant, tapered hands are far less common than the standard stick hands and lend the watch a significant dose of vintage character that drives collectors wild. The gorgeous silver sunburst dial has aged to a warm, even champagne patina that is simply breathtaking. The classic “pie-pan” stepped edge of the dial adds a wonderful sense of depth, perfectly framing the applied baton hour markers.